Sunday, March 8, 2015

KENZO: ROBOTIC MODERNITY

The clothes were therefore made to cover the body: big shawls swathed over long dresses worn with a head-embracing hood. A deep-blue furry coat with its colourful high boots was another way that the designers expressed protection from the elements. While a more countryside-inspired shade of green created collars, cuffs and patchwork for boots.




The silver pillars moving across the runway as a robotic, changeable set put the Kenzo Winter 2015 show as firmly in the digital age as did the patterns and modern fabrics.
Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have taken the brand back to its roots: the Japanese DNA of founder Kenzo Takada - and his wanderlust.
But they have worked the spirit in such a way that even moss green, layered outerwear could only be from the twenty-first century.
This season was intriguing because for all the urban suggestion of those hologram pillars, the storyline made the collection seem more rugged, as if coming from a primordial land.
The outfits often looked from the Eighties in their size - back to this era of clothes with a confident sweep of a silhouette. But again, there was not a retro drop in Kenzo's modern fashion blood.
"Their abode is in the wild - we explore togetherness through camaraderie, ceremony and protection," the duo said in their programme notes.
This duo has taken Kenzo to a new place, appealing to a young, up-to-date audience. But their links to the original collections are profound.

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